It takes countless creative minds to build a fashion-forward future and at Vogue India’s Forces of Fashion showcase that launched this week, 39 of the country’s most loved turned out their very best. In association with Rabanne, the event unfolds as a five-day exhibit running till 20 September at Nilaya Anthology in Lower Parel, Mumbai.

Among the many voices shaping the exhibit, a few offer a glimpse into the breadth of imagination on display: “I wanted to reimagine bandhani not just as textile but as structure,” says Rahul Mishra, who translates the craft’s “memory, culture and tradition” from the villages of Kutch into architectural silhouettes.

Shantnu and Nikhil speak of “exploring drape and deconstruction through the lens of military—a paradox of power reimagined in sculptural forms,” while East, a young designer from Manipur, hopes to “represent the side of India that is often left in shadows”. His exhibit puts the spotlight squarely on the traditional wraparound garments of the Northeast and the mathematical intricacies of loin loom weaving.

For Bobo Calcutta, the idea of architecture meeting fashion stems from his earliest memory of the pandal—“a structure that involves, envelops, embraces love in the centre of whatever [they] think is architecture”. Gaurav Gupta channels his obsession with surreal Indian mythology through a brass sculpture of a swan-peacock-snake-like bird-woman. Meanwhile, Ashdeen’s ‘Cloud Kingdom’ draws on the fantastical creatures embedded within Parsi gara embroidery, reimagining the storied craft in a dreamlike light.

Centred on the values of mindful creation, innovation and accessibility, this year’s edition reflects the industry’s shifting landscape, while honouring its history and mapping its future. “We are so inspired by the talent and passion our designers brought to the second edition of the Forces of Fashion exhibit. And the best part is the diversity on show—from Gujarat to Manipur and Kerala, Telangana to Ladakh and Himachal Pradesh, we took pains to ensure underrepresented regions were treated at par with Mumbai and Delhi. And the results are on show for all to see,” says Rochelle Pinto, Head of Editorial Content at Vogue India.

The showcase, supported by Moroccan Oil, Grey Goose Vive Le Voyage and Nilaya Anthology, will culminate in a red-carpet gala on 23 September at the JW Marriott, Juhu in Mumbai, spotlighting a new generation of designers, artists and cultural frontrunners redefining the fashion landscape. Below, find snippets from each installation.

Rabanne

Manish Malhotra

Anita Dongre

Gaurav Gupta

Rimzim Dadu

Shantnu Nikhil

Shivan & Narresh

Varun Bahl

Suneet Varma

Shyamal & Bhumika

House of Kotwara

Afew by Rahul Mishra

Abhinav Mishra

JADE by Monica & Karishma

Archana Rao

Kunal Rawal

Dhruv Kapoor

Divyam Mehta

Namza Couture

NorBlack NorWhite

Papa Don’t Preach

Rimple & Harpreet

11.11

Akaaro

Kaleekal

Rishta by Arjun Saluja

Ashdeen

Bloni Atelier

Bobo Calcutta

Chanakya School of Craft

Countrymade

EAST

Ekaya Banaras

KGL

Paiwand

QUOD

Rkive City

Studio Medium

SWGT

That Antiquepiece

Also read:

Manish Malhotra, Gaurav Gupta, Anita Dongre, Rahul Mishra and more—35 of India’s biggest designers unite for an art-meets-fashion showcase in Mumbai

What the fashion industry wore at Vogue India’s Forces of Fashion 2024

Who wore what at Vogue India’s Forces of Fashion exhibition