If you’ve been shooting for a while, you can become quite comfortable doing things the way you’ve always done them. And often, that’s perfectly fine. However, technology is moving swiftly, and it’s always a good idea to try out new ways of doing things to see if they could work better for you.
In this video for Adorama, David Bergman answers the question of whether to shoot in the regular RAW mode or Canon’s C-RAW mode. He breaks down the pros and cons of each format, shares practical insights, and offers advice for photographers looking to optimize their workflow without sacrificing quality.
Understanding RAW vs. C-RAW
What Is a RAW File?
A RAW file contains all the unprocessed data captured by the camera’s sensor. Unlike JPEGs or TIFFs, which are compressed and processed in-camera, RAW files preserve every bit of information, giving photographers greater control over exposure, white balance, and dynamic range in post-production.
Each camera manufacturer has its own proprietary RAW format:
- Canon: CR3
- Nikon: NEF
- Sony: ARW
David has always preferred RAW for its flexibility, especially when revisiting old photos with new editing techniques. But is there a way to maintain that flexibility while saving storage space? Enter C-RAW.
What Is C-RAW?
C-RAW (Compact RAW) is Canon’s solution for reducing file sizes without sacrificing resolution. Using lossy compression, C-RAW shrinks files by 40-50%, allowing photographers to store more images on their memory cards and hard drives.
For example:
- A standard RAW file from the Canon R1 averages 27.5 MB.
- The same image in C-RAW drops to 12.4 MB.
That means that a 32GB memory card can hold 1,200 RAW files or 2,600 C-RAW files, more than double the capacity.
The Benefits of C-RAW
1. More Shots, Fewer Card Changes
For event photographers, wildlife shooters, or anyone capturing high-volume bursts, C-RAW means fewer interruptions to swap memory cards.
2. Faster Buffer Clearance
When shooting fast action (concerts, sports, wildlife), the camera’s buffer can fill up quickly, slowing down or even stopping continuous shooting. You can see in the below example that the buffer fills up much slower if shooting in C-RAW.
- Canon R6 Mark II Example:
- RAW (12 fps): ~85 shots before buffer fills (~7 seconds).
- C-RAW (12 fps): ~240 shots (~20 seconds).
With a faster UHS-II card, C-RAW allows over 1,000 shots in a single burst, practically unlimited for most scenarios.
3. Storage Savings
For photographers with massive archives (David admits to 100+ terabytes of stored images), switching to C-RAW could drastically reduce storage needs without noticeable quality loss.
Potential Downsides of C-RAW
1. Lossy Compression
C-RAW uses smart algorithms to discard redundant data, which could theoretically affect image quality. However, in David’s tests at low ISOs, there was no visible difference between RAW and C-RAW. At extremely high ISOs (25,600+), RAW files showed slightly less noise when heavily underexposed and pushed in post.
Verdict: Unless you’re regularly shooting in near-darkness and aggressively recovering shadows, C-RAW holds up remarkably well.
2. Software Compatibility
Most major editing programs (Adobe Lightroom, Capture One, Apple Photos) support C-RAW. However, some specialized modes (like Canon’s RAW Burst) may require Canon’s proprietary software (Digital Photo Professional) for full compatibility.
3. Not to Be Confused with mRAW/sRAW
Older Canon DSLRs offered mRAW (medium RAW) and sRAW (small RAW), which reduced resolution instead of compressing files. C-RAW retains full resolution, only shrinking file size.
Should You Switch to C-RAW?
After testing, David is considering the switch, at least for some shoots. Here’s his advice:
Stick with Full RAW If You:
- Shoot astrophotography or frequently push shadows in high-ISO scenarios.
- Need absolute maximum dynamic range (e.g., landscape photographers).
- Have unlimited storage and prefer uncompromised files.
Switch to C-RAW If You:
- Shoot high-volume bursts (sports, concerts, wildlife).
- Want to extend buffer performance and avoid slowdowns.
- Need to save storage space without sacrificing resolution.
Final Thoughts
Ultimately, it’s worth staying open-minded and trying out both options in non-pressured situations to see which one works best for you. As always, there’s no one correct answer here. Both file types have their strengths depending on the situation, and it’s always good to stay open to trying out new things and not just doggedly stick to what you’ve always done.
